Not just hand-me-downs: The impact of second hand fashion on the economy

The second hand fashion market has come a long way since the days of moth eaten sweaters in the local charity shop. In recent years, this element of the garment industry has seen a massive boom in popularity as well as a shift in cultural value and perception. This Second Hand September, take a look at what this means for the overall economy and future of the fashion industry.

We know that the recent rapid increase in the popularity, output, and consumption of fast fashion is unsustainable and is having a hugely detrimental impact on the environment. European and North American countries in particular are driving an explosion in consumption of garments produced through highly polluting methods and with short lifecycles. In 2019, London acquired 154,600 tonnes of new clothing and got rid of 142,700, 40% of which ended up in the waste bin. The remaining 60% was collected by charities, local authorities, and textile merchants - although only around 10% is actually reused in London. (ReLondon).

While the impact of fast fashion is incredibly damaging - particularly for those living in the global majority who experience the effects of the production and the wastage - the rise of the second hand fashion industry does provide some hope for a shift in the buying habits of consumers in the West. 

Changing how we view second hand

While proudly sporting your charity shop finds may have been looked down upon ten years ago, savvy shoppers are now competing for the best second hand gems. Resale apps like Depop and Vinted allow shoppers to browse pre worn items and make money off their own clothes. Although charity shops are seeing an increase in donations, it is these apps who are better able to take advantage of the resale industry by competing with shopping apps such as Asos or Amazon.

With the never ending output of fast fashion brands having created a continuous cycle of micro trends, we are shopping and throwing away at ever faster rates. However, this has also led to so called 'trend fatigue' causing shoppers to turn towards higher quality and longer lasting items that will outlive this year’s trend cycle.

Second hand fashion options can also offer higher quality items for prices that can compete with fast fashion giants. Shoppers turn to pre worn items or charity shops for affordability and the 'make an offer' feature on apps like Vinted means users can often haggle prices down further.

From high street to designer

The shift towards second hand options has also been infiltrating the high fashion end of the industry thanks to the more unique and unusual pieces gaining recognition. With perceptions of second hand shifting from unwanted cast-offs to 'rare' vintage treasures, the desire to showcase individual style through one-off finds has been increasing. Small scale vintage sellers create desirability and intrigue through releasing “drops” which they tease through carefully curated social media accounts and influencer collaborations. The second hand sector is also backed by big names in fashion wishing to promote circularity. From Alexa Chung’s recent collaboration with Vinted to sell pieces from her personal wardrobe to, former editor of British Vogue, Alexandra Shulman hosting designer resale events in local communities in London.

Thanks to these changing perceptions of second hand fashion, along with many consumers’ increasing engagement with ethical and environmental issues informing the way they shop, the sector is seeing an economic boom. 

How does second hand impact the economy?

In the first quarter of this year, Vinted overtook Amazon and local retailer Kiabi to become the largest clothing retailer in France in terms of sales volume. According to a report by the French Fashion Institute, second hand clothing sales now account for 10.9% of all clothing sales volume. This increases to 16.3% for consumers aged between 18 and 34, reflecting the younger generation’s engagement with fashion’s environmental impact. Fast fashion giant Shein still ranks at number 5 in French clothing sales volume but with a much smaller proportion of the market.

This trend towards pre worn and second hand options is on a strong upwards trajectory as the global market is expected to reach 367 billion dollars by 2029, expanding at a pace 2.7 times higher than the general apparel industry (Fashion United). In 2024, the second hand market grew by 15% and The Co-operative’s 2023 Ethical Markets report showed that sales of second hand clothing increased by nearly 50%, with many younger consumers looking to second hand as a first option when shopping. 

Shifts in traditional retail markets

Witnessing these changing trends among shoppers has prompted designer and high street brands to diversify their income by launching resale elements in their business. Brands including Patagonia, Toast, Cos, and Net-A-Porter offer in house circularity options by reselling their items after customers no longer want them, and Selfridges have launched a resale service for designer accessories including bags and watches.

While the second hand fashion industry is by no means an antidote to fast fashion’s disastrous environmental and ethical impact, it does represent a shift in thinking, particularly among younger generations. Ultimately, we need to learn to consume less and pivot the fashion industry towards small scale, low impact production with truly circular options. Moving towards resale platforms and placing a higher value on unique vintage items which tell a story is a step in the right direction and improves our connection to the clothes we wear, leading to better awareness of their impact. With enough clothing in the world currently to dress the next six generations, there is no need for the scale of production we are seeing now. 

Resale markets are making a difference and there has never been a better time to shop second hand. With so much available across different platforms, you are sure to find the style you’re after, from high street to designer, and maybe even a vintage gem on the way!

Keep reading for more sustainable fashion insights:

How difficult is it to recycle your old underwear?

How EU legislation could help tackle global textile waste 

Breaking up with plastic fashion: a deep dive into polyester

Images courtesy of Canva